The learning experience is unusual with natural dyes, you start off thinking "oh this is easy" then you progress to the " I know that already" stage, and then you begin to realize that the subject is so huge that you can only scratch the surface in a lifetime. I have been at that stage for quite a while, but I do feel that having concentrated on dyeing silk and linen I am pretty competent at getting a good colour on those particular fibres. I would never describe myself as an expert - ever- after all "an ex is a has been and a spurt is a drip under pressure" and who would want to be described thus? But I digress as usual.
The point behind this post is that I have been doing some experimenting with cellulose mordants, the results I have obtained so far (and I do accept that it is a very simplistic start) have made me realize that I need to do some serious study here and ultimately write an academic paper on it, so please excuse me, but I am going to put a copyright on this post, in preparation for that final paper!
Coming from an historical perspective I have always used the alum tannin mordant method for linen (and cotton). I use oak galls as my tannin source, rather than tannic acid, to appease the environmentalist in me, I may have to adjust proportions accordingly, but I follow given recipes. My first reference when I started on cellulose was Gill Dalby's book natural dyes for vegetable fibres. She was an amazing lady who did much to promote natural dyes - and worked with the environment in mind, it is from her book I get the 8% alum and 7% cream of tartar recipe for protein fibres. Jim Liles The art and craft of natural dyeing was my next book and I learned about using aluminium acetate as a mordant from him. (both are well stained as you can imagine!) When I started using the Earthues extracts I thought I'd try out the commercially produced aluminium acetate as Michelle Whipplinger is so pro using it, it's certainly quick and easy and is very good if you have a mixed fibre combination like hemp silk.
In my own sweet little world though I wasn't so sure, so I decided to do a simple experiment. I broke a 100g hank of cotton (my wonderful new organic cotton boucle, which will be available very soon!!!) into smaller hanks of even size. Wetted them out for a couple of days first and then scoured them with washing soda and detergent keeping them all together. I then put 2 into an aluminium acetate mord
ant and 2 went through the alum and tannin method of mordanting. After rinsing them well I dyed 1 of each in madder and 1 of each in cochineal extract. The only thing that was different about the preparation was the actual mordant. Now look at the results! The alum tannin has taken the dye much more intensely for both dyes. I have not cheated here, it was a straightforward simple experiment.
ant and 2 went through the alum and tannin method of mordanting. After rinsing them well I dyed 1 of each in madder and 1 of each in cochineal extract. The only thing that was different about the preparation was the actual mordant. Now look at the results! The alum tannin has taken the dye much more intensely for both dyes. I have not cheated here, it was a straightforward simple experiment. Based on what I've seen so far, I think I will continue to use the older method for now - but as I get more into the research I'll keep you informed - and in the mean time I'll continue to stock aluminium acetate powder in my shop!!!
© Debbie Bamford, May 2009
